Sommelier
Local sparkling wines
By Predrag Gavrilovic
We are witnessing the multi-decade rise in the popularity of wine gastronomy and wine culture, as if the world had never been guided by the Roman maxim that an advanced civilization goes as far as the cultivation of vines.
However, something we have witnessed in the last few years is the stagnation and decline in popularity of some wines in the leading producing countries, but one category is experiencing its golden age, which it also had in the "Belle Epoque" period from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. It is about sparkling wines, and the trend has not bypassed Serbia either. In the last decade, sparkling wines recorded a constant growth in exports from European Union countries by 7% per year, with the exception of 2020, the year of the pandemic.
Given that the required characteristic of fruit for quality sparkling wines is the complete opposite of the grape characteristic for quality still wines. The selection of varieties and regions from which the grapes come is quite colorful. Non-aromatic varieties and grapes that are not fully ripe give the potential for quality, providing high acidity, low alcohol level and neutral aromatics because the aromatic character of the wine is given by the second fermentation in the bottle, as well as a dose of elegance.Most of the producers in Serbia produce the wines they offer using the traditional method, that is, the second fermentation in the bottle, which ensures a greater wine potential, greater intensity, more pronounced aromatics and a fuller body, mainly from the traditional varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot noir. The minimum period of bottle aging on the yeast lees is not prescribed by the domestic wine legislation, so it is left to the producers to determine this period, which is usually from two to six years, in accordance with the style of wine they want to make. As a result, we have a solid number of wines with recognizable aromas of yeast, biscuit, baked bread, warm croissant, with aromas of ripe or baked apple, medium plus acidity and medium to full body. Such wines have a great gastronomic dimension and are mostly small annual production , from several hundred to several thousand bottles.Wines that have been aged for a shorter time on the lees are generally characterized by dominant aromas of apple, lemon, pear, with discreet tones of yeast and bread, a drier style and a fresher character, with a nice aperitif potential.The price range of such domestic wines is mostly in the category of French Cremant and Spanish Cava, which makes them really competitive and popular. Some of the larger capacity wineries have recently been producing larger quantities of sparkling wines using the charmat or tank method, also known as the Prosecco method, given that the universally popular wine is produced using this much simpler, faster and cheaper method, which enables the rapid production of a large number of bottles of wine with a distinctly fruity character, apple, pear, peach, with medium or medium minus acidity, light body and very often more residual sugar, equivalent to the dry and extra dry category. Some of these wines from domestic producers quickly found their way to consumers who like this style as well as popular cocktails based on such sparkling wines.Grape varieties
Grašac
Considering the really great diversity and the solid amount of plantings, it can certainly provide high quality raw material for sparkling wines. Neutral aromatics and high acids, especially in positions where it records high yields.
Chardonnay
Synonymous with sparkling wines. They use wineries whose wines are already established on the Serbian market. Traditionally, great potential is given in colder positions, on sheltered terrains and soils dominated by limestone,
Smederevka
One of the varieties that can be an interesting option in the future, given its neutral character and higher yields , while the local origin is popular with foreign wine lovers .
Pinot blanc
A variety that is not widely planted and is generally not widely known among consumers, but it can be a great option for sparkling wines. It is the leading variety in the French region of Alsace in the Cremant D Alsace category.
Pinot noir
Also, the variety that is synonymous with high-quality sparkling wines, although there are not many of them under the plantings , plays an important role in the body and aroma of high-quality sparkling wines produced using the champagne method.
Regions of productionThe potential of Serbia as a producer of high-quality sparkling wines is primarily reflected in the great diversity of terrain, altitudes and soil substrates, where it is possible to choose positions that provide grapes with the necessary characteristics. There are also a large number of producers whose vineyards are 15 years old and more, and where it is possible to recognize special "plots", parts of the vineyard where grapes would be more suitable for sparkling wines. Most of them come from the Fruška Gora, Šumadija, Jagodina and Oplenac vineyards, and recently from Subotica-Horgoška Peščara .
Sparkling wines are living their golden age
